"From the Grass Under The Roof to the Grass On Top of the Roof"

Southern terminus: Milwaukee County, at Highway 59/National Avenue at 27th Street in Milwaukee

Northern terminus: Door County, at the junction with Highway 42 in Sister Bay

Mileage: about 192 miles

Counties along the way: Milwaukee, Ozaukee, Sheboygan, Manitowoc, Calumet, Brown, Kewaunee, Door

Sample towns along the way: Milwaukee, Brown Deer, Mequon, Port Washington, Saukville, Plymouth, Kiel, New Holstein, Chilton, DePere, Green Bay, Dyckesville, Brussels, Sturgeon Bay, Baileys Harbor, Sister Bay,

Bypass alternates at: Mequon/Cedarburg, Green Bay

Quickie Summary: State “Trunk” Highway 57 takes on a lot of identities as it connects Milwaukee, Green Bay and Door County. Originally slated to the be interstate highway that I-43 eventually became, 57 begins in Milwaukee at the Mitchell Park Domes (where plants grow under conical glass roofs) and ends in Door County's Sister Bay by Al Johnson's restaurant, where goats graze on the grass-covered roof. Along the way is Milwaukee's North Shore, access to some of Sheboygan County's best golfing, shops and sights in numerous towns between Plymouth and Green Bay, and of course the Door County's north peninsula, where Highway 57 runs the Lake Michigan side.

Highway 57 starts along 27th Street (former U.S. 41) at National Avenue (Highway 59) on Milwaukee's near south side. The sights happen pretty much immediately.

The Drive (South to North): Highway 57 begins as 27th Street in the City of Milwaukee (pop. 602,000), at a junction with Highway 59 (National Ave.) A few blocks north is the first tourist attraction, the Mitchell Park Domes & Horticultural Conservatory. Are the three domes like beehives or a huge bra factory? It depends on who you ask, but either way, the 85-foot high domes each host their own climate and consequently, their own species of plants. There's a Tropical Dome, featuring banana and cacao trees and fruit-bearing plants from papaya to avocado and guava. Colorful tropical birds glide happily between the plants, so for winter-weary Milwaukeeans, this can be like a mini tropical vacation - minus the beach or hurricanes. An Arid Dome offers up a variety of desert plants, including a series of cacti. Plants include American and African varieties along with a series of flora and plants from Madagascar, the section of which was dedicated in 1984 by the Ambassador from Madagascar himself. Finally, a Show Dome features seasonal shows (depending, of course, on the season) and an annual holiday exhibit in December, complete with a "garden railroad" display that's one of the largest in the Midwest.

Highway 57's southern start at National Avenue (Highway 59) features a lot of Spanish small businesses and, one block north, the Mitchell Park Domes, a horticultual conservatory that also looks like a 90-foot-high brassiere factory.

Mitchell Park was one of the original Milwaukee County parks, was the home of original European settler Jacques Vieau (whose son-in-law Solomon Juneau would go on to be the official "founder" of the City of Milwaukee), and overlooks the Menomonee Valley, which runs about 3 miles and features abrupt hills on the north and south sides. It's like Milwaukee's little answer to the Grand Canyon. The Menomonee River runs through the valley, once a land of wild rice and marshes before 19th century development turned it into a series of stockyards, rail yards, tanneries and the like. Today, the Valley still hosts some heavy industry but is undergoing dramatic changes. It still serves as an imposing geographic divide, however, between the north and south sides of Milwaukee, so much that Highway 57 as 27th Street leapfrogs the Valley on a viaduct completed in 1910. The view from the 27th Street Viaduct has changed dramatically over the decades, and today Miller Park dominates the westward view and Milwaukee's downtown skyline - as well as several other viaducts - dominate to the east. Also visible, especially at night, is the dancing lights of the bustling Potawatomi Bingo Casino, one of the largest in the Midwest.

The Mitchell Park Domes are visible from Highway 57 (27th Street) at the north end of the Menomonee Valley at St. Paul Avenue, over I-94 in Milwaukee.

At the north end of the viaduct, I-94 is accessible via St. Paul Avenue (just follow the signs) for accessing downtown, the ballpark, the Valley, or other nearby neighborhoods. Highway 57, meanwhile, continues north into Milwaukee's north side, first as 27th Street, then jogging east on Highland Avenue (U.S. 18) for one-half mile before heading north again on 20th Street. At Lloyd Street, an interesting piece of baseball history lies to the east a few blocks, for professional baseball was once played at the Lloyd Street Grounds, where the Milwaukee Brewers once played - at least an earlier incarnation of them. Further north, Highway 57 crosses Fond du Lac Avenue (Highway 145) and goes through the heart of Milwaukee neighborhoods that have seen better days - in some cases, those better days were pre-1900. Frankly, this is an area that should be traversed during the day only.

There are, however, some good eats in the area. First, a quick jog eastward (right) onto North Avenue to 17th Street - only 3-4 blocks - will bring you to Jake's Deli, a Milwaukee institution that is open for lunch only and draws fans of corned beef, pastrami and matzoh ball soup for hundreds of miles. At the light with Walnut Street, you can duck eastward (right) briefly to Speed Queen BBQ (Walnut & 12th, 414-265-2900), which has some of the best pork, ribs, beef and turkey in the Midwest. Further north, soul food fans love Mr. Perkins' Family Restaurant (read a review here), which is at 20th and Atkinson, just north of where Highway 57 turns east onto Capitol. Overflowing plates of greens, smothered and fried chicken, catfish, black-eyed peas, cornbread, pie and a variety of breakfast items have delighted patrons since 1969 at this family-owned joint. They have variety: pigs' feet and chitterlings are on the menu, but so are salmon croquettes.

Upon reaching Capitol Drive (Highway 190), Highway 57 jogs east along this major thoroughfare, and the houses on either side of the boulevard are beautiful, well-kept examples of Milwaukee bungalows. The neighborhood dates back to the 1920s and was the traditional "dividing line" for Milwaukee's old neighborhoods to the south and the new, post-World War II growth to the north.

The stretch of Capitol Drive featuring Highway 57 on the north side of Milwaukee is a nice boulevard - recently redone - with well-kept older homes flanking it on both sides.

Just before I-43 past 11th Street, Highway 57 turns north to follow Green Bay Road, an old post road and military trail that today is a major thoroughfare north of Capitol. Past some industrial areas to Hampton, lovely parkland begins to show itself as Lincoln Park lines Green Bay Road to the east. The Milwaukee River begins to parallel Highway 57 here, although most of the time not closely enough to be seen. Leaping over an interchange with Silver Spring Drive, you enter the burb of Glendale (pop. 13,367). Along this stretch, many of Glendale's major employers have offices, including Johnson Controls' World Headquarters. It's also home to Sprecher Brewery, originally founded in 1985 in Milwaukee before heading to the suburbs (the tables turned in 2006, when Manpower - a much bigger company - announced a relocation from Glendale to downtown Milwaukee). Sprecher features 6 year-round brews and 14 seasonal and limited release beers, including a market-leading line of gluten-free selections. They also make seven varieties of popular sodas, including a terrific root beer and a cream soda. Best of all, they offer tours! Times vary and tours cost anywhere from $1 to $3, depending on your age - which also determines which free samples you get. Check their website for details.

Highway 57 meets Highway 100 at an overpass. This is the newer configuration; the original crossroads of Green Bay & Brown Deer Roads lie just a few blocks to the southwest, where Brown Deer's "downtown" was... and still is...sort of. The Fire Department is there, as is a little sports bar named Prime Time, which appeared on TV on a (very) short-lived ABC series called A Whole New Ballgame, which featured Corbin Bernsen, Julia Campbell, Tom Kind and John O'Hurley (later of Seinfeld and Dancing With The Stars fame) and was set in Milwaukee. The show lasted for about six weeks in 1995. Today, Prime Time is a good stop for a quick lunch or beverage and catching up with whatever games are on.

A sizeable commercial corridor marks the north end of Brown Deer before the road become a two-lane again into Ozaukee County and the City of Mequon (pop. 23,820). Consistently rated as one of the "Best Places to Live in the United States" by Money Magazine (and there's a lot of money in Mequon), the city has a lot of high-end homes, some plotted on acre-plus lots and others amidst forested neighborhoods. Highway 57 as Green Bay Road forges through woodsy areas with a speed limit of 35. Fans of volleyball, beverages and Animal House would find a good diversion by taking Donges Bay Road west 1/2 mile to Libby Montana, a bar/restaurant/sports complex along a former railroad that now serves as the Interurban Recreational Trail. Owned by actor Mark Metcalf, who played both Douglas C. Neidermeyer in Animal House and the "Maestro" on Seinfeld, owns Libby Montana with his ex-wife, Libby. Clever, no?

Mequon is often paired with Thiensville (pop. 3,254), known locally by some as the "worthwhile square mile." Mequon is Wisconsin's fourth largest city by area, while Thiensville is 1/46th of Mequon's size. Nestled right along the Milwaukee River, Thiensville features the charming and compact layout of a small Midwestern village, while Mequon is a more spread-out version of a nice suburb.

ALTERNATE ROUTE ALERT. Highway 57 was re-routed in the early '90s to turn east with Highway 167 (Mequon Rd.) to then follow I-43 north past Port Washington. While this can save significant time and you can follow the current map, the best way to see Ozaukee County communities is to follow 57's original route, as described below. The old and new 57 routes meet up again just before Port Washington.

Cedarburg
Following Highway 57's traditional route, continue north past Mequon Road (Highway 167) and stay on Green Bay Road. The Milwaukee River is just to the east at this point as you enter Thiensville and its array of small shops and riverside parks. North of Thiensville, stay on Washington Ave. (County V) into the ever-popular Cedarburg (pop. 10,908), a place chock-full of history, shopping and visitors. Following County V (Highway 57's old route) into town brings you to the lovely limestone and Cream City brick buildings holding a bevy of shops, small restaurants and unique places to see.

For example, there is the Wisconsin Museum of Quilts & Fiber Arts in Cedarburg. Yes, fiber arts. It's the first time I've heard of it, too. Another popular stop is the Cedar Creek Winery, a well-noted regional winery located in a restored 1860s woolen mill, where at one point they literally made white socks for the Chicago White Sox. It's been a winery in one form or another since 1972, using the underground limestone cellars to ferment and age their over 15 varieties of wine. Tours are available at select times.

BREWERY ALERT
If you're more of a beer person, check out Silver Creek Brewing (N57 W6172 Portland Rd., 262-375-4444), in a former grist mill built in 1855. Next door is a charming old Wadham's gas station, part of a bygone era of stations known for the red pagoda roofs. It's right off the old Highway 57 on Portland.

	Next to the distinctive former Wadhman's gas station is the Silver Creek Brewing Company, Cedarburg's own local brewery.
A major rail line once went through Cedarburg, and today it's a major bike trail called the Interurban. Stretching from Milwaukee to Port Washington and beyond, the trail is proving more popular every year. Here the trail crosses Cedar Creek.

Cedar Creek flows through Cedarburg on its way to join the Milwaukee River and provided significant water power for the mills that helped Cedarburg grow in the 19th century. Some of these mills - in fact 5 of them - dating back to 1864 host 30 shops and galleries between them in an area known as Cedar Creek Settlement, a great starting or finishing point for an excursion through Cedarburg. A number of good stores line old Highway 57, too, including the Screamin' Tuna Surf Shop, Cedarburg Homebrew & Wine, Creekside Books (home of the Walter the Farting Dog book series) and more.

	Cedar Creek Winery has over 15 varieties on its wine list and there's plenty of room for browsing their wine varieties and other items. Tours are very popular, especially when you can top it off with shopping in the Cedar Creek Settlement and a meal at the Anvil Pub & Grille next door.
Cedarburg offers a number of B&B's for a nice lil' stay, including the Stagecoach Inn. It was built in 1853 and was a true stagecoach stop even before this road was originally Highway 57.

To continue on this Highway 57 part of the State Trunk Tour, follow County V as Wisconsin Avenue out of Cedarburg and into its neighbor, Grafton (pop.11,380). Originally called "Hamburg" prior to its 1846 charter, Grafton flipped its name to "Manchester" from 1857 to 1862 before changing back. So far, it's stayed "Grafton" ever since. Originally a lumber town, Grafton has hosted a series of industries ever since, including the famous Paramount Records from 1917 to 1932. It was right here where 78 rpm records were pressed and distributed to the nation, allowing artists such as Lawrence Welk, Blind Lemon Jefferson, Tom Dorsey and Louis Armstrong to inspire future music generations and lay the seeds for the R&B and Rock 'N Roll Eras. Between 1929 and 1932 alone, over 1,600 songs were recorded in Grafton at a make-shift studio that was formerly a chair factory; the output accounted for about 1/4 of the so-called "race records" of the era.

	Grafton Veterans Memorial Park overlooks the Milwaukee River, a very picturesque scene as it flows through town. Highway 57's original route jogs across the river with Highway 60 before angling northeast along County V back to I-43.
Near old sawmills and chair factories, new condos are sprouting up along the Milwaukee River as Grafton's downtown redevelops.

Old Highway 57 (still as County V) goes right through Grafton's downtown, much of which also abuts the Milwaukee River. After crossing the river along Highway 60, you can re-join Highway 57's current route via 60 to the east or V to the northeast to I-43 northbound. At the junction with I-43 and V, you also have the option of following Highway 32 northeast into Port Washington. Highway 57 itself bypasses the Ozaukee County seat, following I-43 north to the west of the city (32 and 57 hook up again before too long.)

So Highway 57 heads along I-43, over an interchange with Highway 33 and then splits away from the Interstate to head straight north as a four-line highway all its own. This alignment was originally going to be "Interstate 57", a straight-shot I-route from Milwaukee to Green Bay. Had it gone through, the I-57 that terminates on the south side of Chicago would have continued through to Milwaukee and followed this section all the way to Green Bay. That meant I-43 would not have been built, isolating Sheboygan and Manitowoc and possibly bringing heavier development to the cities we'll be going through. But as you'll see, some areas are getting development anyway.

As I-43 heads east to follow the Lake Michigan shore, Highway 57's four-lane, 55 mph northward push takes it past several small towns, including Fredonia (pop.1,934), which means "free gifts" or "the land where things are done freely." Hmmmm... that's worth checking out....

Site of the first Flag Day observance in 1885, the Stony Hill School lies in Waubeka less than two miles from Highway 57. And yes, there are lots of stones in Stony Hill School.

Further north into Sheboygan County, Highway 57 intersects with Highway 144 and grazes the edge of Random Lake (pop. 1,551). The lake - which is apparently not very specific - is 209 acres and the village claims it's the second largest lake in Sheboygan County. The village's website claims no "fast food", stoplights, parking meters, billboards or strip malls. With Highway 57 coming through as a 4-lane expressway here, that could change by the time you read this.

Next up is the tiny village of Adell (pop. 517), birthplace of American cabaret singer Hildegarde. She was born here in 1906 and raised up Highway 57 in New Holstein, which will be coming up later. Eleanor Roosevelt proclaimed her the "First Lady of Supper Clubs"; the Gershwin song "My Cousin from Milwaukee" is about her; she was a founding member of AFTRA, SAG, and Actor's Equity; Revlon even named a shade of lipstick and nail polish after her. She hung out a lot with close friends Katherine Hepburn, Greta Garbo, and West Allis native Liberace and lasted a long time in show business... her autobiography was called Over 50 ... So What!

So we know where Hildegarde is from... so where's Waldo? It's next up on Highway 57 during a brief junction with Highway 28. Waldo (pop. 450) doesn't last long... one intersection and a hop over the Onion River and that's it. The ride is quick on this stretch as you approach the Mullet River, which is just kind of funny, period.

The next place Highway 57 grazes without entering is the City of Plymouth (pop. 7,781), accessible via County C or Highway 23, which is essentially here a 4-lane expressway going east-west across Sheboygan County. Look for the 23/57 intersection to become heavily built-up in the coming years, by the way. Plymouth is almost ridiculously charming, as is nearby Sheboygan Falls. Site of Wisconsin's first Cheese Exchange, Plymouth originally served as a stagecoach stop and transportation has played a big part in its history ever since. Nowadays, racing fans can enjoy dirt track racing in Fair Park in Plymouth throughout the summer; of course, the better-known Road America is just north of Plymouth and features of some of the best racing in North America! To get to Road America, either follow Highway 23 west to Highway 67, then north on 67 for about two miles. Or, head north of Plymouth via Highway 57 and cut west on County J. If you prefer the arts, the Plymouth Arts Center on Mill Street downtown features an eclectic mix of exhibits. Highway 23 offers access to nearby destinations, including Sheboygan Falls, Sheboygan and the Wade House.

A big cow in Wisconsin? You're kidding! Nope. Plymouth features Antoinette, a large Holstein cow, as a local landmark to salute the area's dairy industry. Erected in 1977 (perhaps while disco music played in the background), Antoinette stands 20 feet high and weighs 1,000 pounds. Can you imagine how much milk she'd give if she was real?

	Antoinette (the cow) has stood in Plymouth since 1977 to symbolize the city's role in the dairy industry. The Wisconsin Cheese Exchange was located here in the late 1800's.
	Downtown Plymouth, west of Highway 57 along County C, is a nice mix of classic older buildings, shops, restaurants and .

Past Plymouth, Highway 57 heads straight through the "great wide open", bending northwest slightly as Highway 32 joins in just inside the Manitowoc County line. Two crossings of the Sheboygan River and a few miles send you to a junction with Highway 67 and Kiel.

	Stumbling onto a Brat Fry is a totally Wisconsin thing. This one just happened to be taking place in Kiel when I happened by. State Trunk Tour rules dictate if there's a brat fry, stop and have one. Or two!
	This stretch of Highway 57, combined with 32, goes through the heart of a series of towns, from Kiel to New Holstein to Chilton. This tree-lined stretch goes through the neighborhoods of Kiel.

Kiel (pop. 3,450) bills itself as the "little city that does big things." What are those big things? I'm working to find out. Situated halfway between Lake Michigan and Lake Winnebago, Kiel sits on the Sheboygan River and dams it in the downtown area, about where Highway 57/32 crosses it for the third time. This is where I stumbled across a brat fry - which, of course, requires stopping and imbibing. On the other side of Kiel, 57/32 heads northwest again, into Calumet County (technically, you're now in the Appleton-Oshkosh metro area - even though Highway 57 doesn't go near either city.)

Just a few miles later, along the Canadian Pacific railroad tracks is New Holstein (pop. 3,301). Where is the "Old" Holstein? We have an answer: the Holstein region in Germany, which is where many of the town's founders came from. Remember our discussion of Hildegarde back from Adell? New Holstein is where she was raised, before hitting the big time. New Holstein also "sired" Edward Schildhauer, who was the chief engineer on a little digging project (the Panama Canal) and three NFL players (Ken Criter of the Broncos and Bob Schmitz of the Steelers and... grumble grumble... Vikings.)

	The newly restored Timm House, built in 1873 and restored this year.
	New Holstein's employment base is quite good for a town its size. So what is a Sukup? It's an Iowa-based company that handles, dries and stores grain. It's also a good description for Smithers in "The Simpsons."

Next up in this string of cool little Wisconsin cities is Chilton (pop. 3,708), Calumet's county seat. Chilton features several things to check out, including the Ledge View Nature Center, which can take you through a butterfly garden, high up on a 60-foot observation tower or way down in a series of caves featuring crawl passages, fossils and places called the Bat Room and Wayne's World. In Mother's Cave, it's all crawling. One area called "the Squeeze" recognizes the size of Wisconsinites; you have to fit through a box simulation of the Squeeze before you're allowed into the cave. Its position on the Niagara dolostone reveals more fossils (coral reefs used to exist there), and they tap the area for maple syrup in the spring months. You can also rent snowshoes and cross-country skis, but it's best to try doing that in the wintertime. Ledge View is accessible off Highway 57 by taking Irish Road (just before entering Chilton) south to Short Road.

Highway 57 is hooked up with Hwy. 32 and U.S. 151 going into Chilton.

Like an increasing number of Wisconsin communities, Chilton has a local brewpub. Rowland's Calumet Brewery (25 N. Madison Street, via U.S. 151) features 17 different beers, including interesting names like "Bitter Bitch Belgium Ale", "Fat Man's Nut Brown Ale" and a "Total Eclipse", a monstrously malty opaque beer. Varieties of the beer are also available in liquor stores and restaurants in locations around Chilton and out to places like Manitowoc, Elkhart Lake, Plymouth and Appleton. Rowland's is along U.S. Highway 151, which runs through Chilton and joins Highway 57 & 32 for a brief spell.

Northward from Chilton and over the interestingly-named Killsnake River (there must be a story in there somewhere), Highway 57 opens up a bit and becomes quite the straightaway for a while, perfect for traversing quickly. It's also perfect for county sheriffs. One speed zone is in Hilbert (pop. 1,089), birthplace of jazz musician Bunny Berigan in 1908, the last year the Chicago Cubs celebrated a championship (couldn't resist). Fox Lake (along Highway 33) also claims Berigan and their hometown son, since he grew up there for more of his life before hitting New York and the big time. Berigan's marker is in Fox Lake, but Hilbert is where he first left any marks at all. In Hilbert, Highway 114 provides access to High Cliff State Park, a beautiful vista high atop Lake Winnebago, which only lies about 7 miles west of this point. A little further up is Forest Junction, whose "junction" claim started with two major railroads intersecting; now Highways 57 & 32 cross U.S. 10 here, making it an increasingly popular bedroom community for people working in Appleton and Green Bay. After all, their slogan is "You CAN get there from here."

What you get to just past Forest Junction is Brown County and another junction (a relatively new roundabout, actually), this time with Highway 96 in Greenleaf. A rail trail parallels Highway 57 in Greenlead, and the Trail's End Restaurant hints that you just might be at the end of that trail. Highway 96 accesses Denmark and I-43 to the east and Wrightstown and Appleton to the west. We're heading north toward the heart and soul of Packer Country.

Civilization emerges in the form of DePere (pop. 22,310), a suburb of Green Bay. It's pronounced "d'peer", which a lot of Sconnies also say they fish off of. Split by the Fox River, the name DePere is French (no doy), coming from the term "Les Rapids des Peres", the "Rapids of the Fathers". A mission was established here waaaay back in 1671 by French Jesuit priests, led by Father Claude Allouez, whose name adorns the bridge that Highway 32 uses to split from Highway 57 and enter downtown DePere before heading into Green Bay west of the Fox River.

Meanwhile, Highway 57 takes the name "Broadway" and goes through neighborhoods in the village of Allouez (pop. 15,470). This is where Vince Lombardi lived when he coached the Packers and where political commentator Paul Gigot graduated from high school. Along this stretch, the Fox River parallels Broadway just to the west.

GREEN BAY

From Allouez, Highway 57 enters Green Bay (pop. 102,313 and a.k.a. "Titletown U.S.A.") Green Bay is Wisconsin's oldest city and - not sure if you heard about this or not - are the smallest city to host a National Football League team. They're called the "Packers" and...what, you've already heard about them? Okay. Green Bay is also the headquarters of ShopKo Stores and Schneider National (admit it, you know the commercials and you've seen the "big orange trucks"). Famous people from Green Bay include Tony Shalhoub of Monk fame, ESPN SportsCenter anchor John Anderson, comedian and Mystery Science Theater 3000 creator Joel Hodgson, Pat MacDonald of the group Timbuk 3 - you know, "The Future's So Bright, I Gotta Wear Shades"? - that group. Naturally, Green Bay is home to tons of atheletes too, among them NFL stars Curly Lambeau, Jerry Tagge, Ted Fritsch Jr., Arnie Herber and Aaron Stecker, as well as baseball pitcher Bob Wickman.

For Lambeau Field seekers on this route, the "frozen tundra" lies about 2 miles west of Highway 57; you can access it via the Highway 172 freeway and Oneida Avenue, or just my following Highway 32 from back in DePere in the first time. Trust me, you WILL be able to find Lambeau, the home of the Green Bay Packers...the cross street is Lombardi Avenue, after all.

Along the Fox River, one of the few northward-flowing rivers in North America, bridges are lit up at night with condos, bars and shops springing up around them. At the intersection with Broadway, a Farmers Market offers produce and other items on Wednesday afternoons from June through September from 3pm-8pm. The Neville Public Museum, focuses on art, history and science for northeastern Wisconsin and Michigan's Upper Peninsula and is a great stop for an afternoon - before or after hitting Titletown Brewing.

Green Bay does have a bit of a nightlife area downtown, east along the Fox River. Centered on Washington Street adjacent to Highway 29 (which parallels Highway 54 about a mile north in this area), the area features an array of bars and restaurants. Places to party include Kittner's Pub, Hip Cats, Liquid 8, Confetti, Washington Street Pub, the Fox Harbor Pub & Grill, and Stir-Ups (Stir-Ups is a country bar - yes, think about it.) Green Bay's party crowd hangs out in this area, and it's not uncommon for Packers players to be seen.

Brewery Alert! Green Bay calls itself "Titletown", so when some guys decided to start up a brewery there, it only made sense to call it the Titletown Brewing Company. Coincidentally - or perhaps not - Titletown Brewing started in December of 1996, right before the Packers' most recent Super Bowl victory. Located about two miles north of Highway 54 at 200 Dousman Street (cut north on any cross street to access Dousman, which is also U.S. 141) in a classic old railroad station built in 1899, Titletown brews Packer-backer beverages such as the Johnny "Blood" Red and Canadeo Gold as well as a great root beer called Sno-Cap, which uses Clyde the Penguin as its mascot. Trains, football, beer, food... definitely a good stop on the State Trunk Tour. In front of the entrance to Titletown Brewing on Dousman Street, downtown Green Bay. This used to be Green Bay's actual train station, and they did a great job refurbishing it. One of the tracks running past the brewery is still active with freight trains, though the days of passenger trains is long gone. Fortunately, there's elk burgers and beer in there nowadays.

Highway 57 runs along the east side of the Fox River; paralleling on the west bank is Ashland Avenue (Highway 32). For train enthusiasts, the National Railroad Museum (2285 S. Broadway), features over 70 locomotives and train cars, including the world's largest steam locomotive, known as "Big Boy." It's just over the river.

Running through nice neighborhoods on the east side of Green Bay as Monroe Avenue, you duck under Mason Street and suddenly, Highway 54 joins you for the ride into downtown Green Bay.

Left: The Brown County Courthouse, at nearby Highway 29 (Walnut Street) and Jefferson Avenue. Right: Highways 54 and 57 join together for the ride through Green Bay's downtown and east side.

East of downtown Green Bay, a strip known as "Olde Main Street" offers a variety of shops. Around these points, Highway 29 meets up with Highway 54 and Highway 57 before heading out of town on what is also US Highway 141. This commercial strip was the main road to Milwaukee before I-43 was constructed.

Highway 54 & 57 become a freeway east of the junction with I-43 for about five miles before Highway 57 heads northeast to Sturgeon Bay and Door County, while Highway 54 heads east toward Algoma.

Waterfall Alert. If you like waterfalls, you may want to check out Wequiock Falls. Shortly past Highway 54's exit, take a left on Van Laanen Road and follow the signs into the park where the falls can be found after heading down some stone stairs. Wequiock Falls tends to have the most water flowing in spring (snowmelt, obviously), but most times of the year it's a nice little setting regardless. Find out more here until we can get a picture or some video on our own!

Highway 57 was recently upgraded to a 4-lane highway all the way through to Sturgeon Bay. While this is a great timesaver, for the full State Trunk Tour experience we recommend popping off at the destinations along the "old" road we discuss on the way to the "Bay."

Into Door County

As an exposed rock cut for the new highway you're on beckons, Highway 57 enters Door County, or as some people call it, "The Thumb." Geologists note that the Door Peninsula is the western segment of the Niagara Escarpment, which runs along the north shores of Lakes Michigan and Huron, through Niagara Falls and along the southern shore of Lake Ontario to Rochester, New York. It's a significant geographical feature through the Great Lakes and forms much of Door County's landscape, as well as the cliffs lining the east coast of Lake Winnebago further south. Others may not care as much, so we'll just move on...

Door County is divided into south and north regions; it used to be a full peninsula, but the 1882 completion of the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal made northern Door essentially an island. French explorer Jean Nicolet, who now has a national forest, a brand of bottled water and a high school in suburban Milwaukee named after him, landed on Door County in 1634. According to Wisconsin lore, he was searching for a route to the Far East - as most explorers on the Great Lakes were in those days, though they refused to ask for directions - and happened upon Ho-Chunk Indians. Thinking they were Asian, he celebrated. He was teased quite a bit after that. The county itself is named after the passage between the peninsula's tip and Washington Island, known then in French as Porte des Morts and more commonly to this day as "Death's Door" ("Door County" sounded better than "Death's County", right?) The passage is the site of many shipwrecks over the years, and Highway 42 ends right at that passage, about 50 miles from the highway's junction with Highway 57 just southwest of Sturgeon Bay. Once hooked up with Highway 57, it's a four-lane ride for several miles. You reach County S, which comes in from Algoma as an occasional shortcut mentioned before, and a connection to the northern trailhead of the Ahnapee State Trail, a rail-to-trail biking and snowmobiling route that runs back towards Algoma.

Entering Sturgeon Bay (pop. 9,437), you're in the first of many tourism-heavy towns in Door County. Strugeon Bay is the county seat and the final place on the peninsula where chain stores exist, so if you need something at Target or Wal-Mart, better stock up. Sturgeon Bay has a history of massive shipbuilding and serves as a regional port city. Shipyard tours are available near the many cranes that abound to the north during the Ship Canal crossing. The original bridge downtown, officially called the Michigan Street Bridge and referred to by most as the "Steel Bridge", opened in 1930 and rehabilitation is underway. Before the bypass opened in 1977, it was the source of massive traffic jams when the bridge opened to let boats pass. Today, you follow a one-block jog (pay attention to the "Business 42/57" signs around to a new bridge, opened in 2008. The view of and from the bridge is quite nice, though, and a series of restaurants, hotels, resorts and shops surround the streets on either side. A number of bed and breakfasts in town also makes Sturgeon Bay a popular overnight stop for Door County travelers. The old steel bridge is being resurfaced, so once that reopens there will be a total of three crossings between northern and southern Door County.

Attractive views abound in Sturgeon Bay approaching the shipping canal, which cuts the Door peninsula in half. A series of cranes to the north serves as evidence of the city's continuing shipbuilding industry.
	Once the only connection to the northern Door peninsula, Sturgeon Bay's downtown bridge is flanked by a new bridge three blocks south, which currently serves as the main downtown crossing.
Travelers on this bridge often hummed the opening theme to "Taxi" as they headed across this thing.

The "Business" and mainline routes of Highways 42 and 57 reunite north of Sturgeon Bay and stay together for about a mile before Highway 57 breaks northeast. This is the northernmost traffic light on the Door County peninsula - with about 40 miles of peninsula left! Highway 42 basically follows the Green Bay bay side of the peninsula while Highway 57 heads for the more dune-filled and serene Lake Michigan side, including Jacksonport, Whitefish Dunes State Park and Bailey's Harbor. Since this is the Highway 42 tour, we'll follow the Bay side. It's the busier and more touristy side of the two, and don't be surprised if you spot a ton of Illinois license plates - as well as more than a few Minnesota and Iowa as well as a bunch of other states - along the way.

Past Sturgeon Bay, whether you take the bypass or the route through town, Highway 57 stays connected with Highway 42 for about two miles and then splits off. Highway 42 continues north to follow the Bay of Green Bay waters, while Highway 57 heads toward the Lake Michigan side - often referred to as "the quieter side" of the peninsula.

One of the first places you come across on this "quieter side" can involve a lot of mooing, nayyying and other noises because you reach The Farm in Door County (not a farm, The Farm). Billing itself as a "living museum of rural America", The Farm is a delight for kids, families and anyone who loves animals - we're talking goats (also called "kids" if they're young), chickens, turkeys, pigs and piglets, a variety of cattle, even kittens that are available for adoption. The adorable factor is ridiculously high, so go with caution!

Past unincorporated Valmy and Institute, where you have to slow a bit for the school and other facilities serving local residents, there's access down County WD to Whitefish Dunes State Park (hence, the name "WD" for the county road). At 865 acres, this park was established in 1967 to preserve the dunes along Lake Michigan. Included are boardwalks, wetlands, walking trails, eight miles of cross-country ski trails for winter use, and a nice, sandy beach for summer use. A nature and learning center near the parking area features exhibits, artifacts and thankfully, restrooms. Next door is Cave Point County Park, where you can stand above the waves of Lake Michigan and listen to them crash into the shore.

Highway 57 continues along toward the Lake Michigan shore, which it parallels closely getting into Jacksonport. Once a bustling town filled with the sounds of lumber mills and fishing boats along the shore, Jacksonport today brags about being on the "quiet" side of the Door Peninsula - which it is.

Just past Jacksonport is the "Geographical Marker", noting Highway 57 crossing the 45th parallel, halfway (theoretically, at least) between the Equator and the North Pole. The plaque informs you that the actual location of the 45th is half a mile to the south. I felt a little teased. Fortunately, the wayside is gorgeous, with cool rocks to climb on.

After a December snowfall right at the wayside marking the 45th parallel between Jacksonport and Baileys Harbor, the snow clings to the trees along Highway 57. The forest on this stretch makes for a beautiful canopy regardless of the season.

	Left: A panoramic view of Bailey's Harbor (the actual harbor) can be seen from a lot of points, but a municipal platform offers one of the best. This is a popular area for windsurfers too, as winds whipping from the lake often get amplified in the harbor.
	Left: One of the many colorful establishments in Baileys Harbor. Shops, upscale restaurants and a variety of taverns, custard shops and antique stores can be found and shopped in an afternoon. Right: Heading out of Bailey's Harbor toward Sister Bay, Highway 57 heads away from the lake shore; but you're still on the Circle Tour.

Today, Baileys Harbor remains unincorporated (and small) but features plenty to see and do. The Ridges Sanctuary is a privately held wildflower preserve that covers 1,000 acres, including sandy ridges, wooden bogs, wildflowers, and a beach that is open to the public. Self-guided walking tours are available via walking trails and boardwalks for a small fee. The Cana Island Lighthouse, built in 1870, rises 89 feet and projects a guiding light 18 miles out on Lake Michigan.

Heading away from Baileys Harbor, Highway 57 turns north - away from the Lake Michigan shore - and cuts across the peninsula on a beeline towards Sister Bay. There are a few shops scattered along this drive, and a State Trunk Tour favorite watering hole called A.C.'s Pub. A little lacking on curb appeal for city slickers, the bar is inviting on the inside and the home of good bar food, a solid beer and soda selection, a nice patio and on Tuesday nights, sushi. Look at the place and tell me if you'd imagine sushi in there. But yes, they do. Burgers are available too, just in case you get cold feet.

As you reach the Green Bay side of the peninsula, Highway 57 comes to its final village: Sister Bay (pop. 886). Sister Bay bills itself as the "festival village" and there are quite a few. Voted the "#1 Small Town in Wisconsin for Dining" by, well, they don't tell us who, but who are we to question it? Everything from Mexican to Swedish, and from subs to fine dining can be found here. Sister Bay also hosts several amusement parks, including Pirate's Cove Adventure Golf and Johnson's Park Go-Kart Racing, both just south by less than a mile on Highway 42. Basically, you have to take Highway 42 to go anywhere else from this point. Or, of course, you can turn back down Highway 57 and enjoy the reverse trip!

So there you have it. After about 192 miles, from Milwaukee, through a whole host of towns including Green Bay, along bustling freeway stretches and fairly calm 2-lane roads, Highway 57 comes to an end at the junction with Highway 42 in Sister Bay, just down the hill from this sign. The "grass under the roof" was back at the Mitchell Park Domes in Milwaukee; the "grass on top of the roof" lies just to the right along 42, at the almost world-famous Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant. Enjoy!

CONNECTIONS
South Terminus:
Can connect immediately to: Highway 59
Can connect nearby to: Highway 32, about 2 miles east; Interstate 94 & U.S. 41, about 2 miles north; U.S. 18, about 3 miles north

North Terminus:
Can connect immediately to: Highway 42

Upcoming events in places along Highway 57:
Sheboygan County Fair, Plymouth, September 2-6, 2010
Calumet County Fair, Chilton, September 3-6, 2010
Revolutionary War Encampment, Saukville, September 4-5, 2010
Marina Fest, Sister Bay, September 4, 2010
Maxwell Street Days, Cedarburg, September 5, 2010
Custom Bike Show at the Harley-Davidson Museum, Milwaukee, September 5, 2010
Crafty Apple Fest, Chilton, September 11, 2010
Green Bay Botanical Gardens Art Harvest, Green Bay, September 11, 2010
Gallery Night in the Historic Third Ward, Milwaukee, October 15-16, 2010
Gallery Night in the Historic Third Ward, Milwaukee, January 21-22, 2011

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Best Western Woods View Inn 5501 W. National Ave. (Highway 59) West Milwaukee, WI 53214 (414) 671-6400 Link to hotel and reservations

Highway 57's southern start in Milwaukee

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Highway 57 through Milwaukee's North Side

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Best Western Quiet House & Suites 10330 N. Port Washington Rd. Mequon, WI 53092 (262) 241-3677 Link to hotel and reservations

Highway 57's old route through Cedarburg & Grafton (recommended)

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Best Western Stanton Inn 1101 E. Chestnut Street Chilton, WI 53014 (920) 849-3600 Link to hotel and reservations

Best Western Midway Hotel Green Bay 780 Armed Forces Drive Green Bay, WI 54304 (920) 499-3161 Link to hotel and reservations

Best Western Maritime Inn 1001 N. 14th Ave. Sturgeon Bay, WI 54235 (920) 743-7231 Link to hotel and reservations