Golfing and Surfing in Sheboygan

One of the reasons Sheboygan is considered a good place to retire is the plethora of golf courses. Incredible courses like Whistling Straits bring worldwide acclaim and establish Sheboygan as a premier place for golf. Nestled along a two-mile stretch of Lake Michigan, Whistling Straits reminds most golfers of the classic olde links in Scotland and Ireland. Whistling Straits hosted the PGA Championship in 2004 and will host the U.S. Senior Open this year. It will again host the PGA Championships in 2010 and 2015, as well as the Ryder Cup in 2020.

What else is interesting about Sheboygan? Well, the 338-foot high flagpole in front of Acuity Insurance's headquarters is the tallest flagpole in the United States. The city hosted its first event with the International Federation of Competitive Eating in 2006, when Takeru Kobayashi broke the world bratwurst-eating record by downing 58 brats in 10 minutes against heavy competition. Sales of antacids were massive in town that night.

From its southern origin, Highway 42 shoots northwest out of Sheboygan, crossing I-43 and then turning north when it meets up with Highway 32 at Howards Grove (pop. 2,973). This stretch is rather lightly-traveled, as most through traffic uses I-43, but eventually Highway 42 meets up with U.S. Highway 151 and I-43 again after its inland march. Highway 42 through Howards Grove after the junction with Highway 32. This starts a pretty quiet stretch all the way to Manitowoc, as most Sheboygan-Manty traffic uses I-43.

Highway 42 actually skirts the outer areas of Manitowoc (pop. 34,053) along I-43 before joining U.S. Highway 10 and heading into the city's north side as Waldo Blvd. Manitowoc itself is world headquarters for the Lakeside Foods Company and the Manitowoc Company, a major manufacturer of cranes, ice machines and refrigeration equipment. It also constructs ships, and the city's main high school nickname reflects it as the "Shipbuilders", a rather unique high school name. The "Subs" would also be a fitting name, since 28 submarines were built here, the only inland shipyard to do so. The nautical theme continues with the fact that Manitowoc is the western terminal for the S.S. Badger, a car ferry ship that carries U.S. 10 across the lake to Ludington, Michigan (the only ferry on Lake Michigan until the Lake Express started up in Milwaukee in 2004), and that the city holds the Wisconsin Maritime Museum, one of the nation's most extensive museums for Great Lakes maritime history and nautical archeology. If you go, check out the USS Cobia, a naval submarine permanently docked in the Manitowoc River at the museum, right before the Lake Michigan shoreline. All of this is in downtown Manitowoc, which lies just south of Highway 42. Follow U.S. 10 south from Highway 42 to access the museum and the rest of the city's downtown.

While you're going downtown, check out the Rahr-West Art Museum and the brass ring in front of it. At 610 N. 8th Street (the northbound side of U.S. 10, a good route for re-joining Higwhay 42), you can check out a variety of visual arts and exhibits, as well as a piece of Sputnik. Yes, the Soviet satellite. A 20-pound piece of it, the only one surviving re-entry into the atmosphere, crashed to earth in 1962 and just happened to pick the middle stripe of 8th Street in Manitowoc for its landing. What some may simply assume is a manhole cover is actually a brass ring, marking the spot where the chunk of Russian craft, reportedly "still glowing" when police found it, landed. It's right in front of the Rahr-West Art Museum. The original chunk was returned to the Soviets (one can only imagine... "um, here, this is what's left of your satellite"), but a good replica is available for viewing in the museum.

If the chocolate monster within you needs satisfaction, check out Beerntsen's Confectionary (108 N. 8th Street, 920-684-9616), a local favorite since 1932. Beerntsen's maintains the ice cream parlor atmosphere in their original location; meanwhile, they ship their chocolates to other parts of the state, including the tony American Club in Kohler, which features Beerntsen's in their gift shop. Further up 8th Street on the other side of Highway 42/Waldo Blvd is the Lincoln Park Zoo (920-683-4537), rife with a variety of animals amidst a beautiful park setting. The zoo is free, but you know, they'll accept donations.

	Great guns! The USS Cobia is in the water and on display at the Manitowoc Maritime Museum, just south of Highway 42 in downtown Manitowoc.
	Spying on an intimate moment with two prairie dogs at Manitowoc's Lincoln Park Zoo; meanwhile, right along Highway 42 just before it meets Lake Michigan, we met this nice little porcupine and named him Pricker.

Upon reaching Lake Michigan, Waldo Boulevard carries Highway 42 along a stretch along the lakefront from Manitowoc to Two Rivers. Running within a few hundred feet of the water, a brilliant summer day makes for a beautiful ride along Lake Michigan. The Budweiser silos, perhaps the tallest signature buildings in downtown Manitowoc, are clearly visible down the shoreline, and don't be surprised to see the SS Badger steaming its way across the lake for the 45-mile ride to Michigan.

About five miles northeast of Manitowoc lies its sister city, Two Rivers (pop. 12,639), known locally as "Trivers". It's where the ice cream sundae was invented. Sure, Ithaca, New York makes the same claim, but what the heck do a bunch of New York upstaters know?

The historic Washington House, located one block off Highway 42 in downtown Two Rivers, where you can imbibe in a sundae just like this one at the place where they were invented. Right along Highway 42 is the marker talking about George Hallauer,Edward Berner and a ten-year-old girl in search of a chocolate fix changed dessert history.

So, hop up to the historic Washington House and order a sundae. With its antique soda fountain, you'll swear you're in the throwback days when they only cost a nickel. But I'm sure they'll remind you that it's not the case anymore. The city's official slogan is "Catch Our Friendly Waves", which lap up on Lake Michigan and the East and West Twin Rivers, which are the two rivers the city is named after. Highway 42 bridges both in the downtown area and also offers access to the Point Beach State Forest, where you can hike or bike through the woods and dunes on your way to the Rawley Point Lighthouse. County Highway O also offers a drive along the forest's boundary and will link you back up to Highway 42 and County V about five miles north of Two Rivers.

Highway 42 itself makes a beeline north out of Two Rivers, past the Point Beach Nuclear Power Plant (clearly visible from the highway) and providing access to the Point Beach Energy Center (6600 Nuclear Road, 920-755-6400), which features displays and information about the history of electrical generation and how electricity is generated today - including nuclear, fossil fuels, and renewable, all big topics in our world today. Highway 42 continues north into Kewaunee County, where you pass the Kewaunee Nuclear Power Plant before heading into the plant's - and county's - namesake town.

Kewaunee (pop. 2,806), like many towns along this stretch of Lake Michigan, features a beautiful lakefront area. The city began as a potential "gold rush" town in the 1830s as rumors spread to European settlers that gold was in them thar hills, but when the boom turned out to be a bust, dreams of a Chicago-like city went south. Originally part of Door County, Kewaunee became a city in itself in 1893 and developed as a lumber town, using its attractive and functional location along Lake Michigan to export wood products to the world. It also offered ferry service across the lake to Frankfurt, Michigan, as early as 1892; ferry service has since been discontinued, but some outfits are looking at the possibility of resurrecting it once again. A nice view comes as you descend a steep hill into the downtown area, where you cross Highway 29, which ends here after a long trek across the state from Prescott, on the Mississippi River.

Crowds along a street leading to the lake in Kewaunee, anticipating the Trout Fest parade in August. This was taken right at the intersection of Highways 42 and 29, facing east (obviously.)
	From the "You Never Know What You'll Find On The State Trunk Tour" Department: in Kewaunee, just blocks off Highway 42.

Crossing the Kewaunee River, which empties into Lake Michigan here, provides a nice view of some homes, boats and other accoutrement. On the hill going up the other side, you'll see the World's Largest Grandfather Clock, from the Svoboda Industries Building in the "Top of the Hill" shop. The view south towards Kewaunee is generally quite nice, too.

You know you're getting further up north when you see a sign welcoming you to Alaska. In this case, it's an unincorporated community noted on the highway for two lakes, a golf course, a supper club, and two sharp turns. From Alaska on north to Algoma, you're hugging the lake shore.

Algoma (pop. 3,357) is the next stop and home to a large charter and commercial fishing fleet (once the largest on Lake Michigan) as well as a nice downtown and the Von Stiehl Winery, the oldest licensed winery in Wisconsin. The winery offers tours in its building constructed in the 1860s, back when Algoma was called Ahnapee (they renamed it Algoma in 1879.) Fish shantys used to dot the shoreline, and some remain, including one 1920-era shanty listed on . The biggest annual event in town is called "Shanty Days" and takes place every August. They have fish, music, and - if you ask nice - beer and wine. Algoma is known as a salmon and trout capital of the Midwest. They make stuff here, too: hammocks, doors, mops and labels among them. Algoma also has a heavy Belgian population (as in "numerous.")

Algoma's downtown is clearly delineated with this arch.
	A lil' bit of fog drifts in from Lake Michigan, covering part of Algoma's shore near the beach along Highway 42, right where Highway 54 intersects.

On the south side of Algoma, Highway 54 ends at Highway 42, 243 miles from its origin over the Mississippi River going into Winona, Minnesota. Travelers to Door County at this point can use Highway 42, or County S, which runs through Algoma's northeast side and serves as a "short cut" to Sturgeon Bay. If you follow Highway 42, you'll go through downtown Algoma and then head along the Ahnapee River (they changed the name of the town, but not the name of the river) for several miles to Forestville.

Into Door County
Just south of Forestville, Highway 42 enters Door County, or as some people call it, "The Thumb." Geologists note that the Door Peninsula is the western segment of the Niagara Escarpment, which runs along the north shores of Lakes Michigan and Huron, through Niagara Falls and along the southern shore of Lake Ontario to Rochester, New York. Others may not care as much, so we'll just move on...

Door County is divided into south and north regions; it used to be a full peninsula, but the 1882 completion of the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal made northern Door essentially an island. French explorer Jean Nicolet, who now has a national forest, a brand of bottled water and a high school in suburban Milwaukee named after him, landed on Door County in 1634. According to Wisconsin lore, he was searching for a route to the Far East - as most explorers on the Great Lakes were in those days, though they refused to ask for directions - and happened upon Ho-Chunk Indians. Thinking they were Asian, he celebrated. He was teased quite a bit after that. The county itself is named after the passage between the peninsula's tip and Washington Island, known then in French as Porte des Morts and more commonly to this day as "Death's Door" ("Door County" sounded better than "Death's County", right?) The passage is the site of many shipwrecks over the years, and Highway 42 ends right at that passage, about 50 miles from the highway's junction with Highway 57 just southwest of Sturgeon Bay. Once hooked up with Highway 57, it's a four-lane ride for several miles. You reach County S, which comes in from Algoma as an occasional shortcut mentioned before, and a connection to the northern trailhead of the Ahnapee State Trail, a rail-to-trail biking and snowmobiling route that runs back towards Algoma.

Entering Sturgeon Bay (pop. 9,437), you're in the first of many tourism-heavy towns in Door County. Strugeon Bay is the county seat and the final place on the peninsula where chain stores exist, so if you need something at Target, better stock up. Like Manitowoc down the lakeshore, Sturgeon Bay has a history of massive shipbuilding and serves as a regional port city. Shipyard tours are available near the many cranes that abound to the north during the Ship Canal crossing. The bridge downtown, officially called the Michigan Street Bridge, opened in 1930 and is scheduled for rehabilitation soon. Before the bypass opened in 1977, it was the source of massive traffic jams when the bridge opened to let boats pass. The view of and from the bridge is quite nice, though, and a series of restaurants, hotels, resorts and shops surround the streets on either side. A number of bed and breakfasts in town also makes Sturgeon Bay a popular overnight stop for Door County travelers. A new bridge is also being planned from Maple to Oregon Streets, meaning there will soon be a total of 3 crossings between the two Doors.

Attractive views abound in Sturgeon Bay approaching the shipping canal, which effectively cuts the Door peninsula in half. A series of cranes to the north serves as evidence of the city's continuing shipbuilding industry.
	Once the only connection to the northern Door peninsula, Sturgeon Bay's downtown bridge is flanked by
Feel free to hum the opening theme to "Taxi" as you drive across this thing.

The "Business" and mainline routes of Highways 42 and 57 reunite north of Sturgeon Bay and stay together for about a mile before Highway 57 breaks northeast. Highway 42 basically follows the Green Bay bay side of the peninsula while Highway 57 heads for the more dune-filled and serene Lake Michigan side. Since this is the Highway 42 tour, we'll follow the Bay side. It's the busier and more touristy side of the two, and don't be surprised if you spot a ton of Illinois license plates - as well as more than a few Minnesota ones - along the way.

Left: Highway 42 meanders through Egg Harbor. Center: Shipwrecked Brew Pub along Highway 42 in Egg Harbor is the only brewpub on the peninsula (versus a plethora of wineries) and offers a hefty variety of malt-based beverages. Right: Restrooms are available at Shipwrecked, especially your need is urgent.

Six miles up the road, just after a twisty, turny ride down a bluff toward the water level, is Fish Creek (locally called "Fish Crick"), one of the most charming Door County hamlets. Fish Creek's first pier was built back in 1855 and its oldest remaining home, the Alexander Noble House (repotedly haunted and available for tours, 920-868-2091), was built in 1874. Most of the gift shops came much, much later, even though tourism was starting to replace commercial fishing as the local economic engine by 1890. Over 40 structures in Fish Creek have "historic" designations; that's one historic structure for every five residents! The continuing charm, the views, access to fishing and camping, and notable shops and restaurants make Fish Creek a popular stop for Door County visitors. Since 1945 the C&C Supper Club (920-868-3412) has been a favorite for dinner and brunch (you might need the credit card with the highest available line, though), while the Windjammer Lounge inside hosts bands during the summer months. A wide array of eateries line the street, including The Cookery (920-868-3634), an ideal place for breakfast on a weekend morning, or the historic 1910-era Summertime Restaurant (920-868-3738) on Spruce, adjacent to Highway 42. Gift shops, craft stores and boutiques also line the streets, offering up more than the standard tourist town fare. The area is, after all, a popular place for artists.

Speaking of art, the Peninsula Players Theatre performs a variety of Broadway-style plays and musicals in what some call the nation's oldest summer theater. Not to be outdone, the American Folklore Theatre also performs here, sometimes adding a zanier edge to their performances. The Peninsula Music Festival takes place every August here. If sitting in your car watching a movie is more your style, yes, they have you covered there, too: the Skyway Drive-In is located right along Highway 42 and will accommodate that desire to squint at a distant screen with the sound coming out of a tiny speaker next to your window.

The phenomenal Peninsula State Park is the most popular in Wisconsin's state park system, bordered by the waters of Green Bay and Highway 42 between Fish Creek and Ephraim. Covering 7 miles of shoreline, steep bluffs, abundant camping opportunities and terrific hiking and biking trails, Peninsula State Park offers 3,776 acres of adventure. Check out Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, with its 45-foot tall square tower and magnificent views; even the view from the stone wall overlooking the water at the lighthouse's base is excellent, and a popular rest stop for bikers, hikers and cross-country skiiers making their way through the park. Eagle Tower, a 75-foot high observation tower with 3 decks, is a must. Perched on Eagle Bluff 180 feet above the water, you can see all the way up the peninsula, the island chain leading to Michigan's Upper Peninsula, and the twin cities of Menomonee, Michigan and Marinette, Wisconsin on a clear day.

	This view of Ephraim from Peninsula State Park offers a New England-esque feel, giving creedence those who describe Door County as the "Cape Cod of the Midwest."
	As the sun drops toward the waters of Green Bay, the view of the harbor and Eagle Bluff from Ephraim can occupy you for hours.

Beyond Ephraim lies Sister Bay (pop. 886). Along Highway 42 is a multitude of things to do, including Johnson's Go-Kart Track (always a lot of fun and, ironically, a good break from driving) and . A "can't miss" - and it's hard to when goats are grazing on the grass roof - is Al Johnson's Swedish Restaurant and Butik (800-241-9914). Al Johnson's whips up a ton of great Swedish fare, including pickled herring, pytt i panna, and the ever-popular Swedish meatballs. And it's probably the only restaurant in the country where the roof needs to be mowed. However, the job is often done by 4-6 goats that use the ramp in the back. They much away from about 8:30am to 5pm during nice weather days while guests munch inside all year 'round.

Highway 57 arrives in Sister Bay and meets up with Highway 42 just before Al Johnson's. From this point forward, Highway 42 is the last main road to the tip of the peninsula. Beyond Sister Bay, things get more sparse; much of the tourism development simply hasn't reached critical mass here (yet) and you can almost feel the peninsula getting narrower as you continue. Foggy weather is much more prevalant from here to the tip; it's not uncommon for this area to be shrouded in fog and 10 degrees cooler than Fish Creek or Sturgeon Bay. Just past Ellison Bay, Highway 42 cuts into the center of what's left of the peninsula; Europe Bay Road will lead you to Newport State Park, which hugs the peninsula's edge. The road then heads north to Gills Rock (once known as Hedgehog Harbor), home of the Door County Maritime Museum and a passenger ferry to Washington Island.

Gills Rock is the northernmost point of the Door Peninsula, but Highway 42 manages 2 more miles, pushing east to the very tip via a crazy, slalom-esque path. Back and forth, back and forth you'll go, zigzagging until you see the water once more - and you've reached the end.

	Road trip slalom: Few roads zig and zag like Highway 42 as it approaches the Northport pier.
You can't go any further: this is the tip of Wisconsin's Door County peninsula as Highway 42 comes to an end. Plum Island lies straight ahead, with Washington Island hiding behind it.

This is Northport, home of the Washington Island Ferry Line and one restaurant. It's truly the point where you're at the tip of the Door peninsula and the only way to go further is to walk the pier for a few hundred feet. At the edge, just past the "End Highway 42" sign, look back and you'll see the land goes left and right, but not behind you. 'Cause you're at the tip. Look in any other direction and you're looking at Porte de Morts, or "Death's Door", home of swirling waters and a multitude of shipwrecks. Plum, Washington, Detroit and Pilot Islands are all in view. Stop in the restaurant, take the ferry to Washington Island, camp out in Newport State Park... or just relax and marvel for a bit. Then, since going back on Highway 42 is your only option, prepare to zig and zag for the first mile as you make your way back.

CONNECTIONS
South Terminus:
Can connect immediately to: Highway 23; Highway 28
Can connect nearby to: I-43, about 4 miles west

North Terminus:
Can connect immediately to: The Washington Island Ferry... that's about it
Can connect nearby to: Highway 57, about 19 miles south

Upcoming events in places along Highway 42:
Steel Bridge Songfest, Sturgeon Bay, June 12-14, 2008
Metro Jam, Manitowoc, June 13-14, 2008
Roar on Sheboygan's Shore, Sheboygan, June 13-14, 2008
18th Annual Manitowoc Garden Fair, Manitowoc, June 14, 2008
Peninsula Music Festival, Fish Creek, August 5-23, 2008

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