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| Highways: ...more to come, including the U.S. Highways in Wisconsin!
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The first town is Pleasant Prairie (pop. 16,136) a vast expanse of town without a real center. In fact, Pleasant Prairie is known not to have a single sidewalk. The enclave of Carol Beach lies along the water as you go past bars whose allegiances gradually lean more Packers than Bears as you keep heading north. After only a few miles, past the Keno Drive-In and other older landmarks, you enter Kenosha (pop. 92,808), Wisconsin’s fourth largest city. Originally known as Pike and then Southport (a name many businesses still use), Kenosha got its current name in 1850, a descendent name from the original Potawatomi name, Mas-ke-no-zha, meaning "place of the Pike." Today, Kenosha just keeps changing. Relying on heavy manufacturing for many, many years, the demise of the American auto industry in the 1970s and 80s took a heavy toll on the area. Today, Kenosha’s economy hums along, buoyed by services and health care. Some manufacturing remains and the area contains headquarters for companies like Jockey International and Snap-On Tools. Proximity to Chicago and Milwaukee, including along Highway 32, makes it a handy area for transportation, warehousing and tourism. A recent influx of Chicago-area residents heightens the Packers-Bears tension every autumn. Ancient Kenoshans may recall the local NFL team called the Kenosha Maroons, which played for one season in 1924. You may know them now as the Washington Redskins. As Sheridan Road (named for Fort Sheridan, which lies a few miles south in Illinois), and just past the intersection with the start of Highway 50, Highway 32 skims past Kenosha’s downtown and revamped harbor district. Formerly the site of a massive American Motors assembly plant, HarborPark bustles with lakefront condos, museums, emerging shops and small businesses and a streetcar system connecting them all. Other attractions include the Kenosha Public Museum and the Museum of the Civil War, scheduled to open in 2008. North through Kenosha neighborhoods, you have access via Washington Road to the Washington Park Velodrome - the oldest continously operating velodrome in the United States - and shortly thereafter beaches that are used by nearby students from Carthage College and UW-Parkside.
Just past the colleges (Highway 32 goes right by Carthage), you enter Racine County and make a beeline to the start of Highway 11 (Durand Ave.) and the City of Racine (pop. 81,855), which calls itself the Belle City and is Wisconsin’s fifth-largest. The French may have named the city (Racine is French for "root", after the Root River which flows into Lake Michigan here), but Danish immigrants left the more indelible marks on the city. Racine is known as the "Kringle Capital of the World". Famous locales like Lehmann’s, O&H, and the Larsen Bakery crank out millions of the tasty iced and filled pastries every year and ship them worldwide. You, however, can stop in for a fresh one right there. They’re best that way. Racine’s industrial and entrepreneurial history now spans three centuries. Home to major companies like J.I. Case and S.C. Johnson, it’s where the garbage disposal was invented in 1927; In-Sink-Erator still calls Racine home. It’s also where malted milk was invented in 1887 by William Horlick, who now has a high school named after him (they do not have a malted milk stand, however, according to my limited research.)
Many cities the size of Racine host minor-league baseball, but Racine hosts minor-league football. The Racine Raiders of the North American Football League are one of the most respected minor-league football organizations in the country and have been around for over 50 years. The Raiders have sent players to the NFL over the years, although unfortunately most of them went to the Vikings. They play at Horlick Field, on the north side of town, just a few miles off Highway 20’s path. Their season begins in June, just about the time post-season Packers talk starts to die down...sort of.
Highway 32 heads into Racine and meets up with Highway 20 for the ride downtown. Downtown Racine and the Harbor area offer a wealth of sights and things to do. The Racine Art Museum (441 S. Main St.) houses a series of contemporary craft exhibits and street-level displays; the Racine Heritage Museum (701 Main St.) houses a bird collection and other features from Racine’s early days. Monument Square (500 S. Main Street) offers a look back - and up - with its 61-foot high Civil War Soldiers Memorial, dedicated in 1884, when it was called Haymarket Square, while also giving a nod to the future with Wi-Fi Internet Access for anyone using their laptops in the square, perhaps imbibing in a beverage or meal from the surrounding stores. Well-known furniture store Porter’s of Racine (6th & Wisconsin) is located along Highway 32 (southbound) and traces its company roots back to 1857. If you’re in the mood for an old-fashioned diner experience and one of the best-rated burgers in the state, by the way, a visit to the Kewpee (520 Wisconsin Ave.) should satisfy you, as it has for Racine residents since the 1920’s. Racine’s attention to the lakefront is among the more impressive in the state. Buildings lining downtown streets offer increasingly busy storefronts, but their upper floors also offer sweeping lake views, as do the condos springing up all over the place. The Reefpoint Marina, Festival Park and Pershing Park can be accessed right off Highway 32 at 4th and 5th Streets, which lead down to the water. Annual events include the Racine Boat Show, Great Lakes Brew Fest and Salmon-A-Rama (which is fun to say, actually).
Other things to see in Racine include the Johnson Wax Golden Rondelle (1525 Howe Street), built in 1964 for the New York World’s Fair; the Wind Point Lighthouse (4725 Lighthouse Drive, Wind Point), one of the oldest (1880) and tallest (108 feet) lighthouses on the Great Lakes; and the Racine Zoo, which offers an impressive array of animals - over 76 species - overlooks the lake, and offers its "Animal Crackers Jazz Series" on Wednesday and Selected Sunday evenings. The Zoo is located right where Highway 32 turns away from Main Street and onto Goold for a little jog through the north side neighborhoods. Heading north from Racine, you’ll see the "Mile Roads." Many drivers on I-94 are familiar with 7 Mile Road (and perhaps 7 Mile Fair). Well, the Mile Roads in Racine County actually measure the number of miles to Highway 20, and they go up as you head north. Once your cross 5 Mile Road, Highway 32 becomes a two-lane road again; at 6 Mile, you meet up with Highway 31, the inland route back through Racine and Kenosha; and at 8 Mile, you reach Milwaukee County (note: this is not the same "8 Mile" that Eminem sang and starred in a movie about. Trust me, they’re quite different.) After 8 Mile and into Milwaukee County is Oak Creek (pop. 31,029), a city formed in 1955 out of its original township. A huge We Energies power plant lies between the road and Lake Michigan, cranking out a sizeable chunk of the power used in this part of the state. The junction with Highway 100 provides an option to bypass much of the Milwaukee area, but hey, if you’re on the Red Arrow Highway, you gotta keep going, right? Many suburbs and a major downtown lie ahead! One such suburb is South Milwaukee (pop. 21,256), a city in its own right founded in 1892. It’s the only city in Milwaukee County that follows its own numbering system for addresses and is home to manufacturing giant Bucyrus International, formerly known as Bucyrus-Erie. Bucyrus made shovels for building of the Panama Canal, and continues today making dragline excavators and shovels, including the world’s largest. Highway 32 jogs a few times approaching South Milwaukee’s downtown, which is focused on Milwaukee Avenue in the midst of a whole series of cross streets starting with the letter "M." From Milwaukee Avenue, you end up on Chicago Avenue - ironically as you head in a northerly direction.
As Chicago Avenue, Highway 32 continues northward and then easterly on College Avenue for about ½ mile, where it returns to Lake Michigan’s shore as Lake Drive. Once on Lake Drive, you’re in Cudahy (pop. 18,316), with houses on your left and Milwaukee County golf courses and parkland on your right. A blue-collar town founded originally as Buckhorn Settlement and then named after meat-packing magnet and bacon lover Patrick Cudahy, the city still makes the tasty meats (the high school team name is the Packers, after all) as well as airplane parts in the sprawling Ladish plant, which has been at it since the early 1900’s.
From Cudahy into St. Francis, Milwaukee Bay and the skyline of downtown Milwaukee comes into view. At this point, Highway 32 (aka Lake Drive) runs about 60 feet above lake level and the views on a nice day - or evening - can be quite impressive. St. Francis (pop. 8,662) is one of Milwaukee County's smallest incorporated places and is named after St. Francis of Assisi. It's home to the Milwaukee Bucks practice facility, located inside the Cousins Center. Highway 32 officially turns west on Howard Avenue just inside the City of St. Francis to head north on Kinnickinnic Avenue, about 1/2 mile inland. Here, we've provided two options for you to get through Milwaukee - both of which are quite enjoyable; it's just one's the official highway route and the other is a slight bypass. **BYPASS ALERT - MILWAUKEE LAKEFRONT ALTERNATIVE**
Following Howard Avenue briefly west, Highway 32 turns north on Kinnikinnic Avenue, named after Milwaukee's south side river. This will take you along the route of a trail that has led into Milwaukee since it was a mere Native American trading stop. Today, the dynamic neighborhood of Bay View is the experience leading into the heart of the city. Bay View was its own town, incorporating in 1879 and featuring its own downtown, Post Office and distinct identity for decades until the city of Milwaukee absorbed it in 1887. Along Kinnickinnic Avenue (aka KK), you'll find a wide variety of homes, small businesses and taverns. This is a great place for creating for own pub crawl. The Palm Tavern (2989 S. KK), Kneisler's White House (2900 S. KK) and Frank's Power Plant (2800 S. KK) provide old-school ambiance and great drink prices. Some bars in the area, like Kneisler's White House, have been around since the 1880s; Frank's Power Plant is one of several with the classic old Blatz neon signs above it that are increasingly rare to find anywhere else. Bay View is the kind of neighborhood where bars will pop up along side streets too, so feel free to explore. Side streets like Delaware, Ellen and Clement provide plenty of places for you to pleasantly stumble onto. This area has plenty of new places, too: The Highbury (2320 S. KK) features a variety of European beers, live music (often jazz) and shows soccer matches live for the surprisingly high number of British soccer fans in Milwaukee. Bar Lulu (2265 S. Howell, in full view of KK) is part funky bar, part kitsch, and part hipster. It's where the guys from Swingers would stop in for a drink. Lulu has an adjoining cafe complete with old school counter service, so there's definitely variety here. For other eats in Bay View, check out Bella's Fat Cat (2737 S. KK) is heavy on the delicious burgers, malts, onion rings and custard... and light on nothing! Tasty smaller meals can be found at the Hi-Fi Cafe (2460 S. KK), which also features a cool jukebox and just a slight dose of counterculture energy. Annona Bistro (2643 S. KK) features a wide variety of sandwiches, paninis, pizzas, and quite a variety in a brunch. For a dose of Florida, check out the hard-to-find-but-worth-it Barnacle Bud's (1955 S. Hilbert St, east off KK Ave. on Stewart and north on Hilbert past some warehouses), where you can munch seafood out of a basket or a bucket along the KK River, sometimes with people who arrived by boat. The Bay View stretch of Highway 32 is great for parking your vehicle and getting out to walk around. Abundant stores and places to check out abound: Rush-Mor Records, Loop, Harry W. Schwartz Bookshop, Broad Vocabulary, even Bay View Bowl are cool to explore. Watch for the opening of the Alchemist Theatre (2569 S. KK), which will feature a variety of, as they put it, "Ego-Free" Art, local musicians and unique theatrical performances. Once you cross Bay Street, you're leaving Bay View. You hop over the Kinnickinnic River, under the Amtrak tracks, and past another fun bar, Chaser's Pub (2155 S. KK, 414-769-0630). Chaser's is not only a good drinkin' place, but they advertise their "last minute gift shop"...and they're not kidding. Knick-knacks a'plenty, including deer-themed merchandise, pewter dragons, and assorted sundry items that help if you find yourself suddenly realizing you need a last-minute gift and 2am is approaching. From there you head into Walker's Point, an area that hummed with factory activity in the 19th century and today hums with redevelopment. As Highway 32 becomes 1st Street, the World's Largest Four-Faced Clock appears. The Allen-Bradley clock has been boldly providing the correct time to south-side Milwaukeeans since 1964 and, at night, serves as a shining beacon. Once dubbed "the Polish moon" to reflect the area's primary ethnic group at the time, it could now be a moon of many faces: this area is heavily Hispanic now. The Massive Concentration of Bars in Walkers Point A sizeable dose of gay and lesbian bars have sprouted up in Walkers Point, too. LGBT places along or within sight of Highway 32 include Mona's (1407 S. 1st), the Harbor Room (115 E. Greenfield), Switch (124 W. National), La Cage (801 S. 2nd), Fluid (819 S. 2nd) and Walker's Pint (818 S. 2nd). Look for neon signs in the windows featuring a rainbow o' colors. Another concentration of bars and restaurants lie within a few blocks of Highway 32/1st Street at National Avenue (the start of Highway 59), including but not even remotely limited to Timer's (739 S. 1st, at National), Fat Daddy's (120 W. National) Steny's (800 S. 2nd), Boom (625 S. 2nd), Crazy Water (839 S. 2nd), V Bar (703 S. 2nd), The Monkey Bar (1517 S. 2nd) and a host of others. (They have a MySpace page with more details. State Trunk Tour Recommendations include: Walkers Point is named after one of Milwaukee's founding fathers, George Walker. Before Milwaukee was Milwaukee, it was three different settlements: Juneautown, founded by French trader Solomon Juneau; Kilbourntown, founded by aggressive developer Byron Kilbourn; and Walkers' Point, founded by businessman George Walker. Walker was the largest of the three men; he tipped the 19th century scales at over 300 pounds and yet was renown for his skills as an ice skater and on the dance floor. Three three men competed for settlers until they realized the nastiness of things - particularly between Juneautown and Kilbourntown - got so aversarial that settlers were getting scared away. Finally, they united under one city charter in 1846, and Milwaukee was born. Walkers' Point is most distinct of the three original settlements in terms of identity - what was Juneautown and Kilbourntown are now known as a variety of neighborhoods: downtown, Third Ward, Yankee Hill, Westown, East Side, etc. Meanwhile, the original Walkers Point is still Walkers Point.
Highway 32 runs right up the middle of the Third Ward, mostly as Milwaukee Street. Just over the Milwaukee River at Erie Street, the Milwaukee Institute of Art & Design (MIAD) is to your left, with art and design students everywhere; to your right is a long line of growing condo and art galleries and restaurants, as well as the south end of the Henry Maier Festival Grounds, home to Summerfest and so many great ethnic festivals that make Milwaukee one of the best festival cities in the United States. Continuing north, you'll have lines of six-story, late 19th century-era buildings on either side. Plenty of opportunities for eating, drinking, shopping and browsing are not only right along Highway 32, but down every cross street: Menomonee, Chicago, Buffalo and St. Paul, all the way to I-794. About the Historic Third Ward
Downtown Milwaukee is home to Wisconsin's busiest business district and has undergone an amazing rebirth over the last decade. The diversification of the area from primarily a 9-to-5 enclave that was otherwise deserted has become, not unlike the Third Ward, an active neighborhood where people live and play as much as work. Highway 32 cuts through downtown north as Milwaukee Street, east as Wells and then north again as Prospect; it takes you within blocks of a dizzying array of sites. Downtown Milwaukee all the way up to da U.P. of Michigan has been toured - details, pictures and more will be posted shortly! CONNECTIONS North Terminus: Upcoming events in places along Highway 32: |
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